Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975)
Gown, Autumn/ Winter 1922 (attr.)
Black silk velvet, coral crêpe de Chine, with lamé embroidery
France, c. 1922
A luminous deviation from Vionnet’s canonical bias-cut language, this rare and documented work reveals the couturiers lesser-known engagement with metaphysical form. Constructed from two stark rectangles of silk velvet- cut with the grain, yet tilted slightly on the bias at the shoulders, the gown departs from anatomical tailoring and enters the realm of ritual design.
Bands on scalloped coral crêpe de Chine arc across the surface like astral ribbons, while lamé crescents glint with quiet, devotional insistence. Byzantine in their iconography, surreal in their logic, these motifs anticipate Schiaparelli’s symbolic couture by nearly a decade.
The bateau neckline and open arm holes imbue the silhouette with sculptural purity, while twin folds at the hips coax volume into a soft blouson- less garment than votive object.
| CONDITION | • Mint • |
|---|