MADAME GRÈS (GERMAINE ÉMILIE KREBS) (1903-1993)
Haute couture gown
Black silk moiré taffeta
France, c. 1979–1980
In the twilight of her career, Madame Grès turned away from the fluid jerseys of her neoclassical past and toward the architectural austerity of silk moiré. The result is a vocabulary of control–rigorous, solemn, and profoundly spatial.
Here, pleats do undulate with romance, but descend with liturgical gravity. The silhouette is not shaped by decoration, but by void and line–echoing the sacred formalism of early ecclesiastical vestments or the mute eloquence of Brancusi’s carved volumes.
There is no indulgence, only incision. The gown reads as monastic sculpture: black moiré holding light like a stone holds shadow. It is a study in volumetric restraint, a discipline of form that repoistions the body not as canvas, but as organizing principle.
With this work, Grès affirms herself not merely as coutuerier but as builder of sanctified space–through fabric, through form, through silence.
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