MADAME GRÈS (GERMAINE ÉMILIE KREBS) (1903-1993)
Haute couture gown
Black silk moiré taffeta
France, c. 1979–1980
In the twilight of her career, Madame Grès turned away from the fluid jerseys of her neoclassical past and toward the architectural austerity of silk moiré. The result is a vocabulary of control–rigorous, solemn, and profoundly spatial. The gown reads as monastic sculpture: black moiré holding light like a stone holds shadow. It is a study in volumetric restraint, a discipline of form.
With this work, Grès affirms herself not merely as couturier but as builder of sanctified space–through fabric and form.
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